Destinations

From Madrid to Segovia… and Back Again.

One of the best parts about traveling is that you can always change your plans if you find a place that you want to spend more time in. That was the case with me and Madrid. My original plan was to go to Barcelona, but I enjoyed myself so much with Pam that I decided to change my reservations and go back to Madrid for a few more days before heading off to San Sebastián. And I don’t regret that decision at all— it has been so much fun reconnecting with Pam and she has been a wonderful tour guide, taking me to places in the city that I would never have discovered myself. And of course sampling lots of tapas, paella, and sangria along the way.

If you walk around Madrid long enough you are bound to discover Las Meninas, art installations that are placed in iconic spots around the city from the Puerta del Sol to the Plaza Mayor. They are named after Velazquez’s 1656 masterpiece that hangs in the Prado, and Las Meninas are translated as “ladies in waiting.” The designers of the sculptures were asked to design the Meninas in response to the question, “What is Madrid for you?” Coming across them in our wanderings through the city I was delighted by the different examples of the artists’ creativity.

Taking the train from Ronda back to Madrid was a breeze, and upon my arrival I went with Pam to the Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, a famous bullring located in the district of Salamanca. Not a fan of bullfighting, I was nonetheless intrigued by the architecture of the building, and the museum that contained traditional bullfighting costumes and paintings of famous matadors.

We also had fun exploring Pam’s neighborhood, El Barrio de las Letras. I loved the colorful storefronts and cheeky signs that appeared in many spots. Pam was a willing partner when it came to sampling various delicacies, and she informed me that having tapas is a verb in Spanish: tapear. I quickly became used to this way of life, and tapear was something that I looked forward to every day that I was there.

Despite how it may appear, we actually did things other than eat tapas and make friends with the locals. We took a day trip to Segovia, which is only a short train ride from Madrid. The addition of the high speed train has cut off the previous traveling time by an hour, as it only took us 35 minutes to get there from the Chamartin station. Pam had given me some background on this historic city ahead of time, but I was not prepared for its beauty. Segovia is located in Spain’s Castile and Leon region, and is famous for its magnificent Roman aqueduct and for its cathedral. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage site, and it is clear from walking around the town that it has earned this accolade.

Segovia is a place of romance, a living legacy of the past. Perched on a rocky hilltop, this walled town boasts magnificent monuments which reveal its rich cultural heritage. It is steeped in complex history, from the Romans of 80 BC to the medieval Moorish period and the coronation of Queen Isabella in 1474. The majority of Segovia’s attractions can be found in the Old Town, an atmospheric world of cobblestone streets, ancient alleyways, and charming squares. The Roman aqueduct has stood the test of time, enduring two millennia in a remarkably well-preserved condition. Built around 50 AD, it is a feat of engineering and was constructed from 20,400 granite blocks without any cement, and the rows of 167 arches have held together in perfect form to this day.

The imposing Catedral de Segovia stands at the highest point of the Old Town, dominating its surroundings. Built between 1525 and 1593, it was the last Gothic cathedral built in Spain. Stepping inside, I immediately sensed a feeling of serenity and harmony. Fine sculptures, artwork, and altars decorate the cathedral’s 18 chapels, and the main altarpiece displays a 14th century ivory figure of the Virgen de la Paz.

With its Disneyland-like turreted towers, the Alcázar castle makes a fairy-tale impression. The fortress stands majestically above the city on a steep-sided rocky crag. The impenetrable location is testament to the original military purpose of the fortress. Dating back to the 12th century, it served as the residence of King Alfonso VIII, and in the 13th century the building was enhanced in elegant Gothic style for John II and Henry IV.

We were able to tour all of the rooms of the castle, which are exquisitely furnished in period style with tapestries, arms, and armor. The Sala del Solio (Throne Room) was stunning, and I found myself taking photo after photo of the ceilings and stained glass windows, so intricate and beautiful they were.

We also stumbled upon a small church that Pam had always wanted to visit but during previous attempts when she had come to Segovia it had always been closed. Not only was it open this time, the church’s caretaker was there and he patiently explained the symbolism of the frescoes around the altar. The church was built in the 12th century, and during the time of the Black Plague it was used as a hospital. The walls had been painted over at the time, and the frescoes underneath were only recently discovered. It was fascinating to hear him talk about the history of the church, and I could tell by the passion in his voice that it was something that he quite enjoyed. This was just another one of the joys of travel, encountering people who you do not expect, who give you a sense of their culture.

Next stop? San Sebastián, a city that I decided to visit based upon recommendations from various friends who had traveled there and fallen in love with it. I can’t wait!

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