The Beauty of the Basque Country
When planning my trip to Spain, for some reason I was most intrigued about visiting the Basque Country. Maybe because I had read a little about Basque culture and felt connected to it in some way, or perhaps it had become almost mythical to me. Whatever the reason, when I first arrived in San Sebastián I was immediately enchanted. I took the train from Madrid, found my very spacious and comfortable apartment, and was pleasantly surprised with the location (only about three blocks from La Concha beach).
On the Bay of Biscay in Spain’s mountainous Basque Country lies San Sebastián, and it is the place to visit for stunning views, innovative cuisine, and a wide range of cultural activities. For centuries San Sebastián was little more than a fishing village, but in 1174 it was granted self-governing status by the kingdom of Navarra for whom the bay was the principal outlet to the sea. Whale and cod fishing were the main occupations, and by the 19th century San Sebastián became a fashionable watering hole for Spanish royalty.
I was curious about trying pinxtos, the Basque version of tapas, but was a bit intimidated about the idea of going out by myself so I decided to join a tour led by Cristina of Intrepid Travel. And I’m so glad that I did— we had a group of seven, mostly guides-in-training, and we were a virtual melting pot of cultures. From Australia, Argentina, Cataluña, Portugal, Mexico, India, and the USA, it felt like our personalities melded together very well as we sampled the local delicacies, wines, and cider. Our group was full of laughter, and I enjoyed our rapport as we chatted both collectively and individually. It was the perfect way to be introduced to the city’s unique charm and beauty, and I couldn’t wait to explore more the next day, already wishing that I had booked more time in San Sebastián.
The next day I met my private guide, Iñaki, for our tour of the French Basque Country. Founder of Just Follow Me, Iñaki was born and raised in San Sebastián. I arranged the tour when I heard about Le Petit Train de la Rhune from a friend. In the French town of Sare, the mountain of La Rhune lies in the Pyrenees, which straddles the border of Spain and France. There is a small train that traverses up the side of the mountain, and I had heard it was a must-do when in the French Basque Country. And it did not disappoint! The views were stunning and I couldn’t stop snapping photos on our way up the mountain. We had coffee at the top, and when the servers found out that Iñaki was a guide, they refused to let him pay. I loved that they spoke Basque to each other and I sensed a connection between them.
I was so interested to learn more about the Basques— about their culture and their history. Iñaki patiently answered my numerous questions, while also telling me about the various towns we would be visiting. I expressed an interest in visiting Espelette, a little town that is known for its piment d’espelette, or red pepper, which can often be seen hanging from houses to dry. The houses in this area of France are mostly red and white, and the sight of the red peppers strung across the houses formed a nice contrast. We strolled about the town and I found all kinds of goodies, including macarons and chocolates flavored with the eponymous pepper.
We then moved on to Biarritz, a wealthy, surfing town reminiscent of Laguna Beach and also the playground for European royalty since the 1800s. About 15 miles up the Atlantic coast from the border with Spain, it is a vibrant cosmopolitan town with magnificent beaches and golf courses. We walked around the lighthouse, which affords amazing views of the beach and the buildings along the coast.
From Biarritz we drove a little further down the coast and visited Saint-Jean-de-Luz, a town that I had heard about from my sister and was looking forward to visiting. Between Biarritz and the Spanish border, Saint-Jean-de-Luz combines Basque charm with beautiful beaches. It is also renowned for its history and architectural heritage. The main shopping area is filled with shops, galleries, and restaurants, and at the end is a small plaza, which houses the city hall. We had lunch at a restaurant, croque madames, which as expected were delicious.
Heading back to Spain, we crossed the natural border and ended up in the town of Hondarribia. In contrast to the red and white houses of France, I knew I was in Spain because the houses were colorful. Iñaki explained that often the fishermen would paint their boats a certain color and then use the leftover paint on their balconies. Situated on the west shore of the Bidasoa river’s mouth, it is a colorful fishing village that is both rich in architecture and gastronomy. It also boasts a well-preserved old town that is surrounded by a fortified wall and cobblestone streets that beg to be explored.
Back in San Sebastián, Iñaki showed me some of the sights that I should visit. So the next day I took a walk along the waterfront to La Concha Beach up to the Royal Palace and Gardens. I also explored one of the town’s bookstores, and I was so excited to discover a book that couldn’t have been more perfect to read at the time— Guernica, by Dave Boling. Set in the Basque Country (including San Sebastián) during the years leading up to the Spanish Civil War, this book combined two of my interests so I immediately snatched it up. Then I made my way to a sidewalk cafe, ordered a vino tinto, and settled into the book, quickly becoming immersed in the story.
I am home now, trying to settle back into the patterns of daily life and amazed at the fact that exactly a week ago I was spending my last day in San Sebastián. Already homesick for this town that I have just begun to know, I promise myself that I will return. Not only to San Sebastián, but to many other cities and towns in the beautiful country of Spain.